I am sitting in a two hundred years old pagoda house, in the middle of a lake with green waters and red fish.
The stone-carved dragon's head sends water under wooden arc-shaped bridges.
Outside, the city of Shanghai roars vibrantly.
I am thinking about the two journeys: the visible across Asia and the invisible one...
I sense as I sit in solitude that double march of my being.
I saw, I touched the visible journey, all its details firmly fixed by matter.
But the inner journey flickers half invisible, stripped of any solid body.
I will have to catch it in words, if it is not to be dispersed...
Yes I know, the finest essence cannot be caught in the net of words, but something still remains - a subtle perfume that stirs our senses and reveals the invisible.
I feel my heart broadened these last weeks by my contact with the earth in solitude.
Something within me has ripened; someone within me has taken a step forward.
Leaning over my notebook, I try to follow this line that has moved...*
* homage to Nikos Kazantzakis
Read more!
Saturday, 23 August 2008
Sunday, 17 August 2008
Some are born to sweet delight...
...some are born to endless night. *
The situation here is much worse than what I initially imagined...
A closer look reveals different images of China to the ones on display for the tourists...
In the space of five minutes I witnessed people with missing limps, extensive burns and body abnormalities being kicked about by shop owners who do not want them begging outside their venues...
One of them went on to cross the busy road without looking left or right... like if he had something to lose...
Two hundred yards from Starbucks in Xi'an, behind the facade of the tall buildings along the main road, lies a sea of debris and rubbish, where once stood a traditional hutong neighbourhood...
And there was a woman shifting through the mess to find something of value to sell...
A very common profession that is...
Like collecting plastic bottles from the recycling bins in order to sell them on and earn who knows how little...
There is just one saying that keeps on coming to my mind:
"The only reason that misery still exists is human egoism".
*William Blake, Auguries of Innocence
Read more!
The situation here is much worse than what I initially imagined...
A closer look reveals different images of China to the ones on display for the tourists...
In the space of five minutes I witnessed people with missing limps, extensive burns and body abnormalities being kicked about by shop owners who do not want them begging outside their venues...
One of them went on to cross the busy road without looking left or right... like if he had something to lose...
Two hundred yards from Starbucks in Xi'an, behind the facade of the tall buildings along the main road, lies a sea of debris and rubbish, where once stood a traditional hutong neighbourhood...
And there was a woman shifting through the mess to find something of value to sell...
A very common profession that is...
Like collecting plastic bottles from the recycling bins in order to sell them on and earn who knows how little...
There is just one saying that keeps on coming to my mind:
"The only reason that misery still exists is human egoism".
*William Blake, Auguries of Innocence
Read more!
Thursday, 14 August 2008
Who's up for a slug?
And I thought that drinking camel milk was an adventure in itself!
What about the Donganmen Night Market in Beijing?
Crickets, slugs, sea horses, sea lizzards, bees, silkworms, centipedes and mighty scorpions are on offer :O
And guess what... I tasted them all! As promised...
9/9 tasks completed so far, what else do you need to support the Fundacion Ninos de los Andes? After all, to raise awareness is why I am doing this for...
Sadly, similar images to those I encountered in Colombia are to be seen everywhere.
Even from the very first day in Moscow, through to Siberia and Ulaan Baatar, I have been witnessing how extreme poverty affects scores of people.
I was told by a local guide that in the Mongolian capital there are also street children that find shelter inside the sewage system.
In shiny Beijing, revamped especially for the Olympic games, most of the locals live in hutongs, traditional neighbourhoods, in which many of the houses lack hot water and toilet facilities.
Now I am in the small town of Datong, waiting to catch a bus to the famous Yungang Caves and the Hanging Monastery.
I have just seen a man with no legs pushing his way forward on a tiny wreck of a trolley, using his palms against the dust road, which is full of mud and leftovers from the local eateries.
Am I too privileged to be here? I do not know...
Am I already doing enough for the person next to me? Probably not...
But for sure many of us can do a lot, when we work together...
Please do visit the links on the side bar to find out more about the work of the Fundacion Ninos de los Andes, and do not forget to send your generous donations to Court Moor School!
Read more!
What about the Donganmen Night Market in Beijing?
Crickets, slugs, sea horses, sea lizzards, bees, silkworms, centipedes and mighty scorpions are on offer :O
And guess what... I tasted them all! As promised...
9/9 tasks completed so far, what else do you need to support the Fundacion Ninos de los Andes? After all, to raise awareness is why I am doing this for...
Sadly, similar images to those I encountered in Colombia are to be seen everywhere.
Even from the very first day in Moscow, through to Siberia and Ulaan Baatar, I have been witnessing how extreme poverty affects scores of people.
I was told by a local guide that in the Mongolian capital there are also street children that find shelter inside the sewage system.
In shiny Beijing, revamped especially for the Olympic games, most of the locals live in hutongs, traditional neighbourhoods, in which many of the houses lack hot water and toilet facilities.
Now I am in the small town of Datong, waiting to catch a bus to the famous Yungang Caves and the Hanging Monastery.
I have just seen a man with no legs pushing his way forward on a tiny wreck of a trolley, using his palms against the dust road, which is full of mud and leftovers from the local eateries.
Am I too privileged to be here? I do not know...
Am I already doing enough for the person next to me? Probably not...
But for sure many of us can do a lot, when we work together...
Please do visit the links on the side bar to find out more about the work of the Fundacion Ninos de los Andes, and do not forget to send your generous donations to Court Moor School!
Read more!
Wednesday, 6 August 2008
Mongolian food update...
Fact #1: It is easier to find Mongolian barbeque in Quito, Ecuador, than in the capital of Mongolia itself!
Fact #2: It is worth looking for it as it is delicious :)
Fact #3: Camel milk sold from street vendors in fly infested containers with no lid on is easy to find...
Fact #4: ...and it tastes like urine (if I can accurately guess what camel urine tastes like)
Fact #5: The clear soup made of mutton fat is not too bad at all... especially if you have just had sour camel milk!
...I think it's time I double-checked my vaccinations booklet to make sure I am covered for Hepatitis B, Cholera and Typhoid!
Read more!
Fact #2: It is worth looking for it as it is delicious :)
Fact #3: Camel milk sold from street vendors in fly infested containers with no lid on is easy to find...
Fact #4: ...and it tastes like urine (if I can accurately guess what camel urine tastes like)
Fact #5: The clear soup made of mutton fat is not too bad at all... especially if you have just had sour camel milk!
...I think it's time I double-checked my vaccinations booklet to make sure I am covered for Hepatitis B, Cholera and Typhoid!
Read more!
Tuesday, 5 August 2008
A (not so) delicious fish eye-ball !
Witnessing the solar eclipse on the shore of lake Baikal!
What more can one ask for?
Well... what about a swim in the 5˚C cold healing waters? Or a juicy eye-ball of the local smoked omul fish? [see photos section]
Not forgetting the typical summer storm that took us by surprise and almost flooded the area...
Oh, and the monster insect bite that caused a small bump on my forearm at first, but later turned into something that looked like a second arm growing from inside...
My experiences from this journey are becoming richer and richer!
Back to Irkutsk, the rain went on, but I really felt at home staying at Elena's place; a modern young Russian woman who lives with her 14 year old daughter Katja - a great fan of My Chemical Romance ;)
The nice dinner (served with greek salad!) was followed by poker lessons and an interesting conversation about life in Russia, movies, music, Japanese culture and even Greek philosophy :]
Once again though, the time to say goodbye came all too soon, and I found myself on the #6 train to Mongolia...
We had a loooong stop on the Russian border, in suffocating heat inside the train carriage. The PowerGen key from my electric meter box came handy, as it fitted perfectly the locked toilet door!
Past the electrified fence to the Mongolian side, I was attacked by hordes of insects the minute I stepped off the train, but at least the immigration procedures were swift...
And I was impressed by the black market dealers asking to change money, following immediately after the border guards...
Early in the morning, we crossed the endless green and yellow of the Gobi desert...
Nomad tents, called yurts and budhist shrines occasionally interrupted the monotony of the landscape...
Ulaan Baataar, the capital of Mongolia, seems stuck somewhere back in time...
Run-down buildings and numerous peasants is all I see..
A few minutes ago, I was standing at the Suhbaatariin Square, in front of the house of parliament...
There has been bloodshed here just a few weeks ago, as supporters of the opposition party confronted the police...
I get a funny feeling that this might be an interesting day too, as I see television vans pulling aside by the square...
I'd rather go looking for some camel milk to taste... yummie!
Read more!
What more can one ask for?
Well... what about a swim in the 5˚C cold healing waters? Or a juicy eye-ball of the local smoked omul fish? [see photos section]
Not forgetting the typical summer storm that took us by surprise and almost flooded the area...
Oh, and the monster insect bite that caused a small bump on my forearm at first, but later turned into something that looked like a second arm growing from inside...
My experiences from this journey are becoming richer and richer!
Back to Irkutsk, the rain went on, but I really felt at home staying at Elena's place; a modern young Russian woman who lives with her 14 year old daughter Katja - a great fan of My Chemical Romance ;)
The nice dinner (served with greek salad!) was followed by poker lessons and an interesting conversation about life in Russia, movies, music, Japanese culture and even Greek philosophy :]
Once again though, the time to say goodbye came all too soon, and I found myself on the #6 train to Mongolia...
We had a loooong stop on the Russian border, in suffocating heat inside the train carriage. The PowerGen key from my electric meter box came handy, as it fitted perfectly the locked toilet door!
Past the electrified fence to the Mongolian side, I was attacked by hordes of insects the minute I stepped off the train, but at least the immigration procedures were swift...
And I was impressed by the black market dealers asking to change money, following immediately after the border guards...
Early in the morning, we crossed the endless green and yellow of the Gobi desert...
Nomad tents, called yurts and budhist shrines occasionally interrupted the monotony of the landscape...
Ulaan Baataar, the capital of Mongolia, seems stuck somewhere back in time...
Run-down buildings and numerous peasants is all I see..
A few minutes ago, I was standing at the Suhbaatariin Square, in front of the house of parliament...
There has been bloodshed here just a few weeks ago, as supporters of the opposition party confronted the police...
I get a funny feeling that this might be an interesting day too, as I see television vans pulling aside by the square...
I'd rather go looking for some camel milk to taste... yummie!
Read more!
Thursday, 31 July 2008
On the road...
No civilization for 3000Km in any direction...
This is the middle of nowhere!
Small settlements of log cabins come and go. Some of them emerged during the building of the Great Trans-Siberian Railway, other served as jail-stations for Stalin era prisoners sent to the goulags.
Even on modern time trains, the conditions seem to be getting harsher and harsher. The roads and even the station platforms are now unpaved, the food on offer is scarce...
Reaching Byuratia Republic, I unsuccessfully tried to find and taste reindeer bone marrow - the indigenous tribes used to eat it while still warm from animals killed on the spot. This is no place for Santa Claus and his furry helpers...
Crossing 9 time zones in 5 days is never easy; add to this the decreasing comfort and increasing noise of the locomotive bone-shaker which cuts through the vast black forests and you get the idea...
Furthermore, the endless zig-zag movement of the train seriously affects my centre of balance, making me feel dizzy when the train comes to a halt at the numerous stations - just like a sailor who steps on land after months in the sea!
In the wagon coupe, the mother figure of Irina (ИРИНА) is taking good care of me. She is also travelling to Irkutsk, with her son Evgeniy (ЕВГЕНИЙ).
Irina is making sure that I sort out my pillow and pillowcase, that my clothes are hanged on the hooks on the wall, that I eat properly, that I wake up at every stop in order not to miss the sights... What sights? I guess she means the run down soviet-style buildings and the rusty footbridges...
All in all a lovely character who never gets tired of talking... about everything... all the time...
We get along well together, even if we have to employ the use of russian, english, german, spanish, italian and greek words in order to understand each other... Some times it even works out :)
Oh well, only another 1500Km to go till we get to Irkutsk, just over 25hrs left...
The important thing is that with great physical and mental effort the circle is becoming wider and deeper...
I have builЕ a greater self, strong and proud, as I wanted; he storms ahead and I follow agonisingly, following his steps as much as I can.
A time will come when the two of us will become one!
Read more!
This is the middle of nowhere!
Small settlements of log cabins come and go. Some of them emerged during the building of the Great Trans-Siberian Railway, other served as jail-stations for Stalin era prisoners sent to the goulags.
Even on modern time trains, the conditions seem to be getting harsher and harsher. The roads and even the station platforms are now unpaved, the food on offer is scarce...
Reaching Byuratia Republic, I unsuccessfully tried to find and taste reindeer bone marrow - the indigenous tribes used to eat it while still warm from animals killed on the spot. This is no place for Santa Claus and his furry helpers...
Crossing 9 time zones in 5 days is never easy; add to this the decreasing comfort and increasing noise of the locomotive bone-shaker which cuts through the vast black forests and you get the idea...
Furthermore, the endless zig-zag movement of the train seriously affects my centre of balance, making me feel dizzy when the train comes to a halt at the numerous stations - just like a sailor who steps on land after months in the sea!
In the wagon coupe, the mother figure of Irina (ИРИНА) is taking good care of me. She is also travelling to Irkutsk, with her son Evgeniy (ЕВГЕНИЙ).
Irina is making sure that I sort out my pillow and pillowcase, that my clothes are hanged on the hooks on the wall, that I eat properly, that I wake up at every stop in order not to miss the sights... What sights? I guess she means the run down soviet-style buildings and the rusty footbridges...
All in all a lovely character who never gets tired of talking... about everything... all the time...
We get along well together, even if we have to employ the use of russian, english, german, spanish, italian and greek words in order to understand each other... Some times it even works out :)
Oh well, only another 1500Km to go till we get to Irkutsk, just over 25hrs left...
The important thing is that with great physical and mental effort the circle is becoming wider and deeper...
I have builЕ a greater self, strong and proud, as I wanted; he storms ahead and I follow agonisingly, following his steps as much as I can.
A time will come when the two of us will become one!
Read more!
Tuesday, 29 July 2008
Reflections on Siberia...
It is said that new lands need to be created inside us first, before emerging from the horizon.
It truly feels that these territories which I am marching through, reflect the wild and desolate image of Russia that lies in my heart:
At times peaceful and calm, then again vibrant and furious, full of controversies, full of new life and decomposed dreams.
Still, I have found russians to be very hospitable and helpful, ever so keen to share their thoughts ...in their language, and despite me informing them that I do not understand a word they say!
Notable landmarks on the way included an obelisk at the top of the Ural Mountains to mark the border between Europe and Asia, and a huge pillar at the entry point to Siberia.
Apart from that, the landscape was rather monotonous, changing slowly from dense taiga forests in European Russia to vast steppas in Siberia.
Even without looking outside the window, life on the train is quite interesting in itself.
For two days I travelled in the same coupe with Valery (ВАЛЕРИ) and Ina (ИНА), an elderly couple returning home from a visit to their son in Moscow. The only other thing I managed to find out about them was that Valery is a professor of Physics in the local university. They taught me quite a few russian words, and I even got a grasp of a conversation they had about politics, which included the names of Lenin, Putin, Zuganov, Chrustsev and mighty Stalin!
All in all, about 26 people were in my wagon, many of which were coming knocking on my door to return things I had forgotten all over the place, such as my camera(!), my transiberian handbook, pencils, my notebook etc.
Quite clearly though, the locals' favourite passtime was gulping all types of strong spirit from what seemed to be an endless supply of bottles they produced out of nowhere! To refuse would be to insult them, according to russian etiquette, and when a bottle opens it must finish :0 At the stops, I was quite happy to treckle off the train for some fresh air and to maintain my sanity...
There, on the platforms, were the ever-present babushkas, selling freshly made food and - guess what - more alcohol. (Un)fortunately, no bugs, lizzards and snakes were anywhere to be found, but I am certain I will have the opportunity to fulfill your requests while in Mongolia and China...
Meanwhile, you can have a look at the pictures I have uploaded (see link on the side bar).
ДО СВИДАНИЯ!
Read more!
It truly feels that these territories which I am marching through, reflect the wild and desolate image of Russia that lies in my heart:
At times peaceful and calm, then again vibrant and furious, full of controversies, full of new life and decomposed dreams.
Still, I have found russians to be very hospitable and helpful, ever so keen to share their thoughts ...in their language, and despite me informing them that I do not understand a word they say!
Notable landmarks on the way included an obelisk at the top of the Ural Mountains to mark the border between Europe and Asia, and a huge pillar at the entry point to Siberia.
Apart from that, the landscape was rather monotonous, changing slowly from dense taiga forests in European Russia to vast steppas in Siberia.
Even without looking outside the window, life on the train is quite interesting in itself.
For two days I travelled in the same coupe with Valery (ВАЛЕРИ) and Ina (ИНА), an elderly couple returning home from a visit to their son in Moscow. The only other thing I managed to find out about them was that Valery is a professor of Physics in the local university. They taught me quite a few russian words, and I even got a grasp of a conversation they had about politics, which included the names of Lenin, Putin, Zuganov, Chrustsev and mighty Stalin!
All in all, about 26 people were in my wagon, many of which were coming knocking on my door to return things I had forgotten all over the place, such as my camera(!), my transiberian handbook, pencils, my notebook etc.
Quite clearly though, the locals' favourite passtime was gulping all types of strong spirit from what seemed to be an endless supply of bottles they produced out of nowhere! To refuse would be to insult them, according to russian etiquette, and when a bottle opens it must finish :0 At the stops, I was quite happy to treckle off the train for some fresh air and to maintain my sanity...
There, on the platforms, were the ever-present babushkas, selling freshly made food and - guess what - more alcohol. (Un)fortunately, no bugs, lizzards and snakes were anywhere to be found, but I am certain I will have the opportunity to fulfill your requests while in Mongolia and China...
Meanwhile, you can have a look at the pictures I have uploaded (see link on the side bar).
ДО СВИДАНИЯ!
Read more!
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